Highlights
- It's the highest summit of the Kang Yatse massif.
- Two summits on one expedition.
- It's a real Alpine AD route, not a snow walk-up.
Overview
Kang Yatse I is climbed off the back of a full Markha Valley approach, with KY II baked in as acclimatisation. Two nights in Leh, then the standard Markha Valley walk-in via Markha and Thachungtse to base camp at Nimaling under the south face of the massif. Day 6 is rest and skills — crampons, ice axe, fixed-rope ascender, cornice technique. Day 7 climbs KY II's south-west ridge for the 6,250m summit; Day 8 is a deliberate rest. Then the expedition shifts to KY I: Day 9 ferries loads to an Advance Base Camp on the glacial moraine; Day 10 moves up and onto the summit camp closer to the bergschrund; Day 11 is the KY I summit push — pre-dawn start, mixed rock-and-ice ridge with fixed lines and a cornice traverse near the top, then a long descent all the way to base camp. Day 12 crosses Kongmaru La (5,200m), the highest pass on the Markha trek, and drops to Chokdo for the drive to Leh. Days 13 and 14 are buffer — held back for weather, a re-attempt, or a delayed flight.
Who climbs with us
KY I is our most technical Indian expedition, and the people who climb it reflect that. Recent batches have included second- and third-time TVT climbers stepping up from KY II or Yunam, and a small share of climbers from outside who came in already fixed-rope-fluent. What they share is the 12+ weeks of focused training the route asks for, and the willingness to turn around if conditions on the upper ridge close in.
Itinerary
14 days, Leh to Leh.
-
Day 1 Arrival at Leh
3,500mFly into Leh in the morning. Take it slow — altitude hits even seasoned trekkers. Hydrate, rest, light meals. Welcome briefing in the evening.
-
Day 2 Acclimatisation at Leh
3,500mEasy acclimatisation walk in Leh. Final gear check and expedition Q&A. Early dinner, full rest.
-
Day 3 Drive to road head, trek to Markha
3,800mDrive from Leh to the trek road head at Chilling. Cross into the Markha Valley and walk to Markha village — the largest in the valley. First night on the trail.
-
Day 4 Markha to Thachungtse
4,250mWalk along the Markha river through small Buddhist hamlets, past Hankar village ruins, and climb onto the high pasture at Thachungtse. Watch for blue sheep and lammergeier on the cliffs above the trail.
-
Day 5 Thachungtse to Base Camp (Nimaling)
4,900mMove up to the Nimaling plain — base camp under Kang Yatse's south face, shared between KY II and KY I. Establish camp; rest the afternoon.
-
Day 6 Rest and training day
4,900mSkills clinic at base camp: crampon fit, ice axe self-arrest, fixed-rope ascender technique, cornice awareness. Short acclimatisation walk in the afternoon. Early dinner. Summit briefing in the evening, sleep early.
-
Day 7 KY II Summit (6,250m) — return to base camp
6,250m summit, return to base campBuilt-in acclimatisation summit. Pre-dawn start with headlamps. Cross moraine, rope up at the glacier toe. Steady snow ascent of KY II's south-west ridge. Fix rope on the final ridge. Summit, then long descent back to base camp by mid-afternoon.
-
Day 8 Rest at base camp
4,900mDeliberate rest day after the KY II summit. Re-pack for the KY I push, dry kit, hydrate, eat. Lead guides recce the route to Advance Base Camp.
-
Day 9 Base Camp to ABC load ferry
~5,400m max, return to base campClimb up onto the glacial moraine and ferry loads to KY I's Advance Base Camp at ~5,400m. Cache rope, pickets, and summit-camp kit. Return to base camp to sleep — classic carry-high, sleep-low acclimatisation.
-
Day 10 Move from base camp to Summit Camp
~5,800mMove up through ABC and continue to the summit camp at roughly 5,800m, just below the bergschrund. Rope-fixing in the afternoon if conditions allow. Early dinner, melt water, sleep by sunset.
-
Day 11 KY I Summit (6,400m) — return to base camp
6,400m summit, return to base campPre-dawn alpine start. Cross the bergschrund, follow fixed lines onto the mixed rock-and-ice ridge. Steep snow up to 50°+, a cornice traverse near the top, and the final summit blocks. Summit photos, then a long, deliberate descent — summit camp, ABC, and all the way down to base camp by evening.
-
Day 12 Base Camp to Chokdo via Kongmaru La, drive to Leh
5,200m pass, 3,800m road headClimb to Kongmaru La — the highest pass in the Markha Valley — and descend the gorge to Chokdo. Vehicle waiting; drive to Leh. Hot shower, real bed, group dinner.
-
Day 13 Buffer day
3,500mContingency day held back for weather or a KY I summit re-attempt. If unused, an extra day in Leh at no additional cost — bazaar, monasteries, café fix.
-
Day 14 Buffer day / departure
3,500mSecond buffer day for delayed flights in or out of Leh. If unused, fly out at leisure.
What's included
Included
- Transport — Leh to last road head and Chokdo to Leh
- Accommodation — stay from Day 1 to last day in Leh (sharing)
- Food — all meals from Day 3 lunch to lunch on the last day
- Permits — all trekking permits and camping charges
- Trekking and safety equipment — tents, sleeping bags, and technical equipment
- Certified trek leaders, guides, and support staff
Not included
- Backpack offloading charges
- Any kind of personal insurance and rescue expenses
- Meals during Leh stay and road journey
- Personal expenses of any kind, and anything apart from the inclusions
- Emergency evacuation and hospital charges
Dates & availability
No fixed dates yet — get in touch for the next Mid-Jul – Mid-Sep batch or private/custom dates.
We haven't opened a public batch for this expedition yet. Reach out and we'll share the next departure as soon as it's confirmed, or set up a private group on dates that suit you.
Need different dates? Private departures are possible through Mid-Jul – Mid-Sep with a minimum of 4 climbers — message us on WhatsApp.
Your guides
Subodh Bhadauriya ITRA
Lead Expedition Guide · 8+ years
Long-distance hiker, trail runner, and occasional poet — at home in the Himalaya.
Frequently asked
What is the Kang Yatse I expedition?
Kang Yatse I is a 6,400m guided summit climb in Ladakh's Markha Valley, run by The Vertical Tribe as a 14-day Leh-to-Leh expedition. KY II (6,250m) is climbed first on Day 7 as built-in acclimatisation, followed by a rest day, a load ferry to Advance Base Camp, a move to summit camp, and the KY I summit push on Day 11.
How difficult is Kang Yatse I?
Alpine AD — mixed rock and ice. The standard route follows a ridge with steep snow up to 50°+, multi-pitch fixed lines, and a cornice traverse near the summit. You'll need solid crampon and ice-axe technique and prior experience on a fixed rope. KY I is a serious second 6,000er, not a first.
What is the difference between Kang Yatse 1 and 2?
Kang Yatse I (6,400m) is technical Alpine AD — mixed rock and ice with a fixed-rope crux and cornice navigation. Kang Yatse II (6,250m) is Alpine PD+ — a snow walk-up with one short technical section. Both share the same base camp at Nimaling. We climb KY II first as acclimatisation, KY I second.
Can I climb KY I as my first 6,000m peak?
We don't recommend it. KY I assumes prior glacier travel, jumar use on a fixed rope, and a tested response to altitude above 5,500m. Climb Kang Yatse II, Yunam Peak, or Mentok Kangri first — all are 6,000ers we run, all are first-timer-appropriate — then come back for KY I.
Is KY II included in the KY I expedition?
Yes. The 14-day itinerary climbs KY II (6,250m) on Day 7 as built-in acclimatisation before the KY I push. You leave with two 6,000m summits on your record, not one. The ₹1,15,000 expedition fee covers both.
What's the best time to climb Kang Yatse I?
Mid-July to mid-September. Late July through August gives the most stable mixed conditions — firm névé snow on the upper ridge, dry rock on the summit blocks, and the longest weather windows. Early July can be soft; mid-September is colder but offers the clearest skies.
How much does the Kang Yatse I expedition cost?
TVT's 2026 expedition is ₹1,15,000 per climber, Leh-to-Leh, covering transport, accommodation, all meals from Day 3 lunch to the last day, all trekking permits and camping charges, technical and safety equipment, and certified guides. Personal insurance, rescue expenses, meals during Leh stay, and personal expenses are not included.
Do I need a permit for Kang Yatse I?
All trekking permits and camping charges are included in your expedition fee and handled by TVT. No Inner Line Permit is required for Indian nationals on this route. Foreign nationals require an additional IMF surcharge and a liaison officer — please reach out 90 days before departure so we can file the paperwork.
How fit do I need to be?
Run 5 km in under 32 minutes, walk 12 km with a 10 kg pack without strain, and complete a focused 12–16 weeks of climbing-specific training before departure — leg strength, anaerobic capacity, and rope-skill refresh. We share a prep plan on confirmation.
What gear do I need to bring?
Personal: B2 or B3-rated mountaineering boots (broken in), down jacket, base + mid-layers, gloves (light + heavy), headlamp, glacier sunglasses, harness if you own one. Technical climbing gear (rope, hardware, ascender, ice axe, crampons), tents, and sleeping bags are provided. Full personal-gear checklist shared after enquiry.
What happens if weather turns on summit day?
Two buffer days are built into the itinerary. The lead guide makes the final call — we'll turn around if conditions don't support a safe attempt, and re-attempt with a buffer day. If both buffer days are weathered out, we descend without a KY I summit (KY II from Day 7 still counts). Mountains decide; we don't fabricate success rates.
What's the cancellation policy?
More than 60 days before departure: 80% refund. 60 to 30 days before departure: 50% refund. Less than 30 days before departure: no refund.